At Le Tricoteur, there's something mystically exclusive about their ancient machines and old-world techniques |
Many people think of the UK as a tiny, muddy rock with weird traditions like rolling cheese down hills and collective cheering when somebody drops a glass in public. I love this country for those very things. Weirder still is how this tiny, muddy rock is surrounded by ever tinier, muddier rocks: islands threatened by a global, digital age in which the cities clean up, the kids move on and the villages fade out. You'd think Guernsey, a self-governing dependency a three-hour ferry ride south of Portsmouth, would be the same. Its menswear is rumbling on, though.
Le Tricoteur, a small label that creates traditional knitwear, has produced a special jumper on the island for decades. I first saw one on a BBC producer who was visiting our office. It looked classic enough, except the neck was wide, with finger-sized ribs, and the shoulders were dropped, and a pleat of wool fastened the seams. It was like seeing an English word in another language, "le parking" or "der download" - familiar, but distant. I asked him where he got it, because you should always tell strangers if their clothes go hard. "It's from Guernsey," he said, letting me take a photo of the label. "So it's actually a proper Guernsey."
It's that sort of specific pedigree that makes Le Tricoteur special. "The island is called Guernsey with a large G and the jumper is guernsey with a small g . You can get a Cornish version, and one from Northumberland. But Ours is basically the indigenous fisherman's jumper of the Channel Islands, like the aran knit from the Aran Islands, and the Fair Isle knit in the Shetlands," says Rachael Laine, Le Tricoteur's owner. "We all have something that, if you're from that country coastal area, you recognise immediately as the fishermen's jumper of the island."
What makes for a real Guernsey guernsey, then? "We have specific knitting motifs that have to be included, and we have always made them out of 100 per cent British worsted wool. That relationship goes back hundreds of years," says Laine. "There are two other makers in the Channel Islands. One of them I would dismiss as not a real guernsey; he's not from Guernsey and he's doing whatever he's doing. The other ones, they're recognisable as guernseys, but they don't use British wool. They're completely computerised. They don't knit on the same gauge as us. I wanted those old machines, I wanted the knitters."
So old, it turns out, that you can't even buy these machines anymore. And even if you couldn't tell that these jumpers are finished by hand, and by people with decades of very niche knowledge ("When you finish making one, there are all these ends. Instead of cutting them off, we put them back into the seams," says Laine), there is something spiritually excellent about Le Tricoteur jumpers. The wool is heavy, a little oiled, and almost fully waterproof. The design is part Wicker Man, part trawlerman, part "man who would look like a very good holiday romance". It's a classic bit of menswear that does the impossible: it's solidly wearable without making you look like everyone else. Even the straight-up navy guernsey stands out; so much so that I stopped a stranger at work to get the skinny on his fit.
"I think if you came to the Channel Islands, you'd see that people are so passionate about the guernsey, because it's like our national dress," says Laine. "We know it's so hard-wearing, and you don't replace them, you want to pass them down. People get buried in them."
They're difficult to get hold of, too. Not because Le Tricoteur is gatekeeping, or because there's some exclusive marketing strategy at play. Just because they're hard to make. Like Liam Neeson, they involve "a very particular set of skills". One bout of shit weather on the island, and a delay of imported materials can mess up production. A couple of retirements could cause an extinction event - which is why Laine is succession-planning, and training people. She says 2025 was their best year of business. They literally cannot make enough as people seek out Le Tricoteur for their slow and steady, folklorish knits. At a time when most local industry has died a death, maybe it's the old school, off-shore menswear that has some magic.
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Yes, Harry Styles is back. And while his new album isn't here for another few weeks, he's already given the people their first proper taste with "Aperture" - a hazy, slow-burn track that critics have been calling things like "joyous, quietly radical" and "deliberately restrained". The best bit, though? The Prada Collapse: a ballerina-coded sneaker that is neither quiet or restrained and it's all the better for it. - Adam Cheung, style writer |
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"The Aussies are showing us up. P Johnson, an unreasonably sharp tailoring label from Sydney, is opening a big store on Old Burlington Street in Mayfair. So if you want a suit that goes hard without trying too hard, get moving." |
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"The Aussies are showing us up. P Johnson, an unreasonably sharp tailoring label from Sydney, is opening a big store on Old Burlington Street in Mayfair. So if you want a suit that goes hard without trying too hard, get moving." |
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Office-sourced hits from GQ HQ |
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