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Going Places: Destinations |
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Both heartachingly beautiful and different-drummer quirky, Rhode Island is the smallest of the United States and one of its most underestimated. While you weren't looking, the state has created experiences so wide-ranging that you can loaf on the beach, commune with spirits in a haunted cemetery, dine at an Indigenous restaurant, and watch a woman juggle fire on the prow of a river gondola, all over the course of a single vacation.
Would you expect anything less from a state founded by a minister that Puritan leaders considered so outlandish they banished him from Massachusetts? A place whose official name was the State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations until 2020, when its first female governor dropped the racist parts? A destination that installed giant sculptures of baked stuffed clams in airports to court tourism and declared its new marketing slogan to be "All That"?
Let us ask not about the bag of chips, but instead ask what makes the "biggest little state in the union"-a place so proud of its calamari, it practically hijacked the 2020 Democratic National Convention with a plate of squid rings-so full of personality. For all its diminutive size, Rhode Island's allure casts a long shadow, thanks to outdoor recreation along 400 miles of coastline, a capital city with more than a dozen distinct neighborhoods, and a multitude of culinary choices, from classic Italian to soul food, that reflect the state's deep history of sheltering diverse communities. Read more in Robin Catalano's Guide to Rhode Island.
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Gilded Age mansions, haunted cemeteries, 400 miles of coastline, and a capital city that sets itself on fire once a month (on purpose). These are the highlights to anchor your trip around. |
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Newport Cliff Walk: 3.5-mile coastal path skirting the backyards of Newport's Gilded Age "summer cottages," palatial estates built by the era's wealthiest families. Guided tours take you behind the velvet rope.
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WaterFire Providence: Once a month from late spring to fall, 80+ bonfires are lit atop the three rivers downtown, accompanied by music and the smell of woodsmoke. A 30-year tradition and beacon of revitalization.
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Federal Hill: Providence's "Little Italy," and the focus of the Crime and Cuisine tour, which traces the neighborhood's culinary history and connection to the third-largest Mafia presence in the country.
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Block Island: Accessible by ferry, an 11-square-mile island with some of the prettiest beaches in the Northeast and activities for all types of travelers.
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North Burial Ground: 110-acre green space, plus the resting place of Revolutionary and Civil War heroes, enslaved people, Indigenous people, and immigrants. It hosts ghost tours, live music, and a Día de los Muertos celebration. Bring flat shoes.
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Rhode Island's nickname derives from its coast. Today, tourism along its 100 beaches is a major economic driver. East Beach in Watch Hill (near Taylor Swift's mansion), Fred Benson Town Beach on Block Island, and Rocky Point State Park, on the grounds of a late, lamented amusement park, have the prettiest views.
Take a sailing tour in Newport or a gondola ride in Providence. Kayak scenic rivers, bays, and inlets, like Upper Wood River in Exeter and Napatree Point near Watch Hill. Scuba dive to shipwrecks, especially around Jamestown and Block Island. Or go quahogging at Point Judith. The shells of the quahog, an eastern species of clam, were used by the Indigenous Narragansetts as wampum (currency), and the meat became an iconic Rhode Island food after the Hurricane of 1938 wiped out infrastructure for the more popular oyster industry.
Prefer to be near the water but not in it? Head for the Newport Cliff Walk, bike around Block Island, or pedal a six-mile section of a historic railroad in Portsmouth via rail bike.
-Robin Catalano, Going contributing writer |
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Clam cakes, coffee syrup, and a calamari obsession strong enough to make it the official state appetizer. Real talk: We couldn't fit all of our recommendations in this newsletter. You'll want to check the guide for our full list. |
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Clam cakes: Savory fritters with chunks of fresh clam, served almost exclusively on the coast. Iggy's Doughboys and Chowder House and Aunt Carrie's serve some of the best.
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Party pizza: Rectangular strips of focaccia smothered in tomato sauce and herbs, sold at Dave's Fresh Marketplace locations across the state. A Rhode Island original.
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Del's frozen lemonade: A summer institution since 1948. Can also be enjoyed with a couple splashes of vodka.
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Coffee milk: Rhode Island's official state drink, made with Autocrat coffee syrup.
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Sly Fox Den Too: In Charlestown, award-winning Mashpee Wampanoag chef Sherry Pocknett builds her menu around Indigenous ingredients.
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Tuxpan Taqueria: Authentic Mexican street food in Central Falls, so good you'll have to force yourself not to eat it for every meal.
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Coming up in Rhode Island |
The Newport Folk and Jazz Festivals are undoubtedly the headliners. Sadly, both are sold out for 2026. Join their waitlists, and/or note them down for a future summer. In the meantime, check out these other events around the bend. |
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Rhode Island International Film Festival (Aug 4-9): New England's largest film festival and one of only a handful worldwide that qualifies for Oscar and BAFTA nominations. Find 300+ screenings across Providence and throughout the state.
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Charlestown Seafood Festival (Aug 7-9): In Ninigret Park, with lobster, oysters, chowder, live music, and the Ocean State's freshest catch.
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Newport International Boat Show (Sept 17-20): One of the largest and most prestigious boat shows in the Northeast, spanning 17+ acres in downtown Newport. (Note: You don't have to be in the market for a yacht to enjoy it.)
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Autumnfest (Oct 9-12): Located in Woonsocket, the largest fall festival in Northern Rhode Island, with artisan vendors, food, carnival rides, fireworks, and more.
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